There are moments during travel when unexpected encounters leave an indelible mark on your soul. My visit to Safi, Morocco's pottery capital, provided exactly such an experience. What started as a casual exploration of the city's famous Potters' Hill turned into a heartwarming encounter with a family that has been shaping clay into beautiful creations for nine generations.
The Heart of Morocco's Pottery Tradition
Perched along Morocco's Atlantic coast, Safi might not be on every traveler's radar, but this authentic city holds a treasure trove of artisanal heritage. The moment you arrive, you'll notice the distinctive Colline des Potiers (Potters' Hill) rising above the city, where centuries of ceramic tradition continue to thrive.
Finding Said: A Master Potter at Work
While wandering through the narrow lanes of the potters' district, I had the incredible fortune of meeting Said, a ninth-generation potter who, along with his son (representing the tenth generation), continues to keep this ancient craft alive. Their workshop, numbered 26 on the hill, is where magic happens daily.
A Hands-On Pottery Experience
What makes Said's workshop special isn't just the beautiful pottery he creates – it's his genuine desire to share his craft with visitors. As I watched, he transformed a humble lump of clay into delicate pieces with mesmerizing speed and precision. But the real treat was when he invited us to try our hand at the potter's wheel.
The Art of Traditional Pottery Making
Said patiently demonstrated the techniques passed down through his family for over 200 years:
- The careful positioning of hands to create the initial shape
- The gentle pressure needed to form the walls of the vessel
- The precise movements required to create even the smallest pieces
- The traditional cutting technique using a simple string
Exploring Safi's Medieval Heart
Beyond the pottery district, Safi offers other historical treasures:
The Ancient Medina
The well-preserved city walls wrap around Safi's old medina, where you'll find:
- Traditional markets (souks)
- Historic Portuguese architecture
- The Portuguese Chapel
- Beautiful traditional doorways and architecture
Practical Tips for Visiting Safi
If you're planning to visit Safi, here are some essential tips:
Best Time to Visit:
- Avoid Fridays during prayer times if you want to see the souks in full swing
- Morning hours are ideal for pottery workshops
- The light is beautiful for photography in the late afternoon
Getting There:
- Safi is easily accessible by car or public transport
- For those traveling by campervan, there's a free parking area near the Potters' Hill
- The pottery district is well-marked and easy to find
Shopping for Pottery:
- Prices are reasonable – small decorative pieces start from just 5 dirhams
- Larger pieces like tagines are available for 20-30 dirhams
- Remember that traditional wood-fired kilns have largely been replaced by modern gas kilns, but the craftsmanship remains authentic
Where to Find Said's Workshop
If you'd like to experience this magical encounter for yourself, head to workshop number 26 on the Potters' Hill. Said welcomes visitors throughout the day, and the experience of watching him work – or trying your hand at the wheel – is unforgettable.
A City Worth Discovering
While Safi might not be as famous as Marrakech or Fez, it offers something equally valuable: authenticity. Here, you'll find:
- Traditional craftsmanship still practiced daily
- Friendly locals eager to share their culture
- Beautiful historic architecture
- A genuine slice of Moroccan life away from the major tourist centers
Your Turn to Experience Safi
Have you visited Safi or other pottery centers in Morocco? I'd love to hear about your experiences in the comments below. If you're planning a trip to Morocco, consider adding this gem to your itinerary – you might just find yourself, like me, learning the ancient art of pottery from a master craftsman whose family has been perfecting their art for over two centuries.