Living in Morocco has exposed me to many fascinating traditions, but few are as captivating (and yes, as pungent!) as the ancient leather tanneries of Fez. The Chouara Tannery, dating back to the 11th century, isn’t just the oldest in the Arab world – it’s a living piece of history that continues to operate exactly as it did nearly a millennium ago.
A Rainbow of Natural Colors
One of the most striking things about visiting the tanneries is the incredible sight of the honeycomb-like collection of stone vessels filled with dyes of every color imaginable. What amazes me is that these vibrant colors all come from natural sources:
- Rich yellows from saffron
- Deep reds from pomegranate peels
- Various other shades from local plants and minerals
The Ancient Art of Leather Making
The traditional leather-making process here is fascinating and hasn’t changed for centuries. Let me walk you through it:
- First, the hides are soaked in limestone vats mixed with pigeon droppings (yes, you read that right!) to soften the leather and remove the hair.
- Then comes a 10-day process where the leather is dyed using only natural materials.
- Finally, the leather is dried in the sun on the rooftops around the tannery.
Quality That Stands the Test of Time
What I find particularly interesting is how the tanners prove the quality of their leather. They’ll often demonstrate its durability by pouring water on it or even trying to burn it – and the best leather remains completely unaffected. The camel leather is especially prized for its durability and is often used for furniture and heavy-duty bags.
A Heritage Under Pressure
While the tanneries remain a crucial part of Fez’s economy (supporting about 33% of the city’s population), they face modern challenges. Many of the skills are passed down through generations, but fewer young people are choosing to continue this demanding tradition.
Tips for Visiting
If you’re planning to visit the tanneries, here’s what I’ve learned:
- The best views are from the surrounding leather shops’ terraces
- Early morning is the ideal time to watch the tanners at work
- Don’t forget to take the mint sprig offered at the entrance – you’ll understand why when you get there!
- Look for the quality certification marks on leather goods to ensure authenticity
A Living Museum of Craft
What makes the Fez tanneries special isn’t just their history – it’s that they remain a working part of the city’s life. Every piece of leather produced here tells a story of tradition, craftsmanship, and the enduring spirit of Moroccan artisans.
Have you visited the tanneries of Fez? I’d love to hear about your experience in the comments below!