My First Impressions of Fascinating Fez
After leaving the chaos of Marrakech behind, I hopped on a first-class train for a seven-hour journey to Fez. I was exhausted when I arrived, but waking up the next morning at my riad, Palais Amani, I was immediately struck by the beauty surrounding me. From my small balcony, I watched the sunrise over the Fez medina and the mountains beyond, already sensing that this city would capture my heart even more than Marrakech had.
"My first impression of Fez is just so beautiful," I remember thinking as I gazed out over the ancient city. "I can't wait to explore! It's bigger than Marrakech and I think it's more beautiful too, but it's too early to judge."
I stayed at Palais Amani, a beautiful traditional riad with a spa in the heart of Fez. It turned out to be the perfect base for exploring the medina, with its charming character and stunning rooftop views. If you're planning a trip to Fez, Morocco, I highly recommend staying here or somewhere similar within the old city walls.
Breakfast in Fez: A Delicious Start
My day began with a typical Moroccan breakfast, but with something I hadn't tried in Marrakech – a delicious fava bean soup drizzled with olive oil and fragrant spices. This hearty start fueled me for the adventure ahead, exploring the winding alleys of the ancient Fez medina.
Understanding Fez's Massive Medina
The medina in Fez is truly enormous! It contains around 9,000 narrow alleys and is actually divided into two parts – the old medina (Fez el-Bali) and the new medina. Most of the main attractions are in the old part, which is where I spent most of my time.
Fez el-Bali is one of the oldest and largest medinas in the world. Unlike Marrakech, this medina is completely car-free, which creates a unique atmosphere where people, donkeys, carts, and a certain beautiful chaos all blend together. It's a UNESCO World Heritage site because everything here – from the architecture to the street life – feels like it hasn't changed in centuries.
I won't lie – it's a bit overwhelming at first! But honestly, it's one of the most authentic places I've experienced in all of Morocco. The narrow pathways twist and turn unpredictably, creating a labyrinth that has confused travelers for hundreds of years.
Shopping in the Fez Medina
Fez is a paradise for shopping enthusiasts. The markets are bursting with choices and colors that make your eyes dance. I couldn't resist trying on a pair of traditional Moroccan moccasins (babouches) that caught my eye.
"The moccasins are beautiful," I told the shopkeeper. "I think I'm going to try a pair!"
After some friendly bargaining (a must in Morocco!), I managed to negotiate the price from 150 dirham down to 125 dirham. The shopkeeper proudly told me the decorative pattern on my new shoes was made from snakeskin – I was surprised but they were too pretty to resist!
Shopping Tip: Always negotiate in the medina! Starting prices are usually at least 30-50% higher than what locals would pay. A friendly but firm approach works best.
Beautiful Religious Sites in Fez
As you wander through the Fez medina, you'll find many beautiful mosques and madrassas (Islamic schools). While non-Muslims cannot enter the mosques, many madrassas are open to tourists.
One of my favorite discoveries was the Attarine Madrassa, built in the 14th century. For just 20 dirhams (about €2), you can visit this architectural gem where students once came to study religion, science, and philosophy. Many traveled from different parts of Morocco and lived here while attending classes.
The courtyard may be small, but it's absolutely stunning with intricate zellige tilework, carved cedar, and beautiful Arabic calligraphy. It offers plenty of great photo opportunities and provides a peaceful historic spot right in the middle of the bustling medina. It's definitely worth a visit!
I also visited one of the holiest shrines in Morocco, where Moulay Idris II is buried. He ruled Morocco from 807 to 828 and is considered the main founder of both the city of Fez and the first Moroccan Islamic state. As Muslims, we were allowed to enter, but it's worth noting that non-Muslims are not permitted inside.
While the shrine itself was beautiful and historically significant, I should mention that the experience wasn't as peaceful as I expected. Several people approached us asking for money, which made the visit a bit uncomfortable. It's a very small place but with many people telling visitors where to go (or not go) and requesting money for their "assistance."
Street Food Adventures in Fez
One of the best ways to experience Moroccan culture is through its food, and the Fez medina offers countless opportunities to sample local treats. During my wanderings, I stopped at a tiny shop where the owner proudly told me his mother made the sweets they were selling.
I tried a delicious confection made of almond and coconut, and another with chocolate and coconut. Both were wonderfully sweet and satisfying after hours of walking. I also sampled cactus fruit for the first time – it has many seeds, with a flavor that's both sour and tasty!
Food Tip: Don't be afraid to try street food in Fez, but look for places where locals are eating. That's usually a sign of both quality and safety!
Finding Your Way to Bab Boujloud (The Blue Gate)
The iconic Blue Gate, known locally as Bab Boujloud, is one of the most recognizable landmarks in Fez. It serves as the main entrance to the old medina and is easily identifiable with its stunning blue tiles on one side and green on the other. The blue represents Fez while the green symbolizes Islam.
Getting to the Blue Gate was quite an adventure! What should have been a 30-minute walk took us about three hours because we kept stopping to take photos, chat with locals, and explore interesting side alleys. That's the beauty of the Fez medina – there's something fascinating around every corner.
When we finally arrived at the Blue Gate, I was struck by its beauty and the bustling atmosphere surrounding it. The area is lined with cafes and restaurants, making it a perfect spot to rest and people-watch. I noticed how diverse the crowd was, with visitors from all over the world admiring this historic entrance to the ancient city.
Walking Tip: Unlike Marrakech which is quite flat, Fez is built on hills. You'll need to be reasonably fit to explore on foot, and comfortable walking shoes are a must!
The Mellah: Fez's Historic Jewish Quarter
Another interesting part of the Fez medina is the Mellah, the historic Jewish quarter. Located just a short taxi ride from the center (about 2-3 minutes), it sits next to the royal palace.
The Mellah was the first Jewish district in Morocco, built in the 15th century. The architecture here feels distinctly different from the rest of the medina – buildings have balconies overlooking the street, which is uncommon in traditional Moroccan homes.
Today, not many Jewish residents remain in the area, and you'll see several mosques and many Muslim locals living there. It's a fascinating example of how cultures have blended and shifted throughout Morocco's history.
Rooftop Views: Seeing Fez from Above
One of my favorite experiences in Fez was enjoying the panoramic views from the rooftop of Palais Amani. Sipping sweet Moroccan mint tea while watching birds soar over the ancient medina provided a peaceful contrast to the bustling streets below.
"To experience Fez properly, it's good to go to a rooftop and actually have a view of the medina," I wrote in my travel journal that evening. "Stay in a local boutique hotel like Palais Amani and enjoy the perspective from above."
When ordering Moroccan tea, remember it usually comes very sweet! If you prefer it less sweet, be sure to request "no sugar" or "little sugar" when ordering.
Learning to Cook Moroccan Food in Fez
Morocco is famous for its delicious cuisine, so I couldn't pass up the opportunity to take a cooking class in Fez. The experience began with a shopping trip to the local souk (market) to buy ingredients.
The market was a sensory overload – colorful produce piled high, the calls of vendors, and the aromas of spices filling the air. We carefully selected our vegetables, spices, and other ingredients. I learned that Moroccans typically buy their meat very fresh, often selecting live chickens that are prepared in the halal tradition right at the market. Thankfully, our hotel had already provided chicken for our cooking class!
"The local souks are where Moroccans do their daily shopping," our guide explained. "It's just fresh produce, very busy, chaotic, but exciting!"
We sampled some local delicacies while shopping, including various olive varieties that are served as appetizers. I tried a very spicy pickle that surprisingly wasn't too overwhelming.
The spice selection was particularly fascinating. We bought small portions of paprika, cumin, black pepper, ginger, cinnamon, and turmeric. "We as Moroccans use a lot of spices," our guide proudly told us. We also purchased some precious saffron for our dishes.
Before heading back, we stopped at a tiny shop owned by Abdullah, known as "the tea man of Fez." He's famous for his signature tea made with a blend of six fresh herbs that he grows himself. This little hidden spot in the medina is definitely worth a visit!
Hands-On Moroccan Cooking
Back at the riad, our cooking class began with the traditional hand-washing ceremony that has been practiced for generations. Dressed in traditional Moroccan cooking attire (including a Moroccan hat!), we were ready to create our feast.
We prepared three courses:
- A starter of zaalouk (eggplant salad) with garlic, tomatoes, and spices
- A main dish of chicken tagine with preserved lemons, olives, and a complex blend of spices
- A traditional Moroccan dessert made with layers of crispy pastry, creamy custard, and topped with fresh strawberries
Standing on the rooftop kitchen with panoramic views of the Fez medina, I felt immensely proud of my culinary creation. "My food looks pretty, and I'm so proud of myself," I remember thinking as we finished cooking.
The meal was absolutely delicious – honestly the best food we had during our entire Morocco trip. There's something special about enjoying food you've cooked yourself, especially when it's eaten with such a spectacular view as your backdrop.
Final Thoughts on Fez: A City That Captivates
Fez, Morocco truly captivated me with its authentic atmosphere, rich history, and incredible architecture. The medina, with its 9,000 narrow alleys, feels like stepping back in time to a world that has remained largely unchanged for centuries.
While it can be overwhelming at first, embracing the labyrinthine streets and allowing yourself to get a little lost is part of the magic. Around every corner, there's something new to discover – whether it's an ancient madrassa, a tiny shop selling handmade treasures, or a local bakery filling the air with mouthwatering aromas.
If you're planning a trip to Morocco, I urge you to spend at least a few days in Fez. It offers a more authentic and less touristy experience than Marrakech, with just as much beauty and culture to explore.
Your Turn to Visit Fez!
Have you been to Fez or are you planning a trip there soon? I'd love to hear your thoughts or answer any questions you might have about this magical Moroccan city. Drop a comment below and let's chat about the wonders of the Fez medina!
Looking for more Moroccan adventures? Check out my guides to Marrakech, Chefchaouen, and Essaouira!