Salam! I've just returned from Fez, Morocco, and I'm still trying to process everything I experienced in this fascinating ancient city. Walking through those narrow laneways felt like being transported back in time - a feeling that's hard to put into words. The high walls, the busy markets, the sounds, and smells... Fez is truly another world.
When my friend and I first stepped out of our Airbnb and into the medina, we were immediately bewildered (in the best possible way!) by how different everything felt from the Morocco we'd experienced in other cities. There's something magical about Fez that stays with you long after you've left.
In this guide, I'll take you through everything that made Fez so special for us - from getting lost in the maze-like medina to discovering hidden riads, watching traditional craftspeople at work, visiting the famous tanneries, and of course, enjoying delicious Moroccan food!
What Makes Fez Morocco So Special
Did you know that the Fez medina is actually built like a maze? Our local guide told us this was intentional - designed so that if intruders came in, they would never be able to escape because they would get lost! Despite having Google Maps, we still found ourselves wandering in circles several times.
Fez is home to one of the first mosques in the world, completed in 859. It was a spiritual and educational center later converted into a university - just one example of the incredible history preserved in this city.
The contrast between the narrow, sometimes shady-looking alleyways and the breathtaking riads and palaces hidden behind unassuming doors is what makes Fez so fascinating. Just when you think you're lost in a labyrinth, you'll stumble upon a beautiful carved doorway that leads to an unexpected oasis.
Hidden Riads: Oases in the Maze
One of my favorite discoveries in Fez was stumbling upon beautiful riads tucked away behind plain doorways. We spotted one with an intricately carved and painted door, and decided to peek inside. To our amazement, they welcomed us in!
The contrast was stunning - stepping from narrow, busy alleyways into tranquil courtyards with pools, beautiful architecture, and plants everywhere. One riad we visited, Riad Dauda, was over 700 years old! The guide told us it was originally a hotel for travelers moving from place to place with their caravans of camels. They would park their camels downstairs, while the rooms upstairs served as accommodations.
These riads have been lovingly restored and many are now boutique hotels. The detailed tilework, carved wooden features, and peaceful atmosphere make them perfect escapes from the bustling medina outside.
Navigating the Busy Markets of Fez
The markets (souks) of Fez are unlike any shopping experience I've had before. We wandered through colorful alleys filled with everything from spices and fruits to traditional clothing and handcrafted goods.
We saw prickly pears being sold (yes, you can eat them!) and beautiful shops selling traditional dresses with incredible embroidery. The local names for these garments are fascinating - kaftans are two-piece outfits with an inner and outer dress, jalabas come with hoods and are worn outside, while gabas don't have hoods and are generally worn in summertime.
One of the most interesting moments was seeing horses coming through the narrow market alleyways - once delivering soft drinks! It's these unexpected sights that make exploring Fez so exciting.
Traditional Crafts: Watching Artisans at Work
A highlight of our trip was visiting local workshops where we could see traditional crafts being practiced. We watched skilled artisans working on looms to create beautiful scarves and textiles.
They demonstrated how they change colors, working with red, green, and gold threads to create intricate patterns. Depending on the complexity and number of colors, a single piece can take 4-5 days to complete. It looked like incredibly hard work - I even tried my hand at working the loom (and promptly broke it - so embarrassing!).
We also visited a shop selling goods made from aloe silk. I had no idea you could make fabric from aloe plants! The shopkeeper showed us raw silk taken directly from an aloe plant before processing - it was incredibly strong. They use this material to make traditional Moroccan jalabas with hoods.
The Famous Tanneries: A Smelly but Fascinating Experience
You'll definitely smell the tanneries before you see them! This is where animal hides are transformed into the beautiful leather goods sold throughout Morocco. The process is fascinating, if a bit overwhelming to the senses.
The tannery we visited is the largest in North Africa. Here's how the process works:
- Animal skins from the slaughterhouse are placed in baths of limestone, salt, and water
- They're then moved to another bath containing pigeon droppings (which work as a natural ammonia to remove bacteria)
- We actually saw workers stomping on the skins in these baths!
- Next, the skins go into a huge wheel (like a massive washing machine)
- Finally, they're placed in colored dye baths where they remain for about a week
Walking along the stone basins filled with different colored dyes was both fascinating and terrifying - one slip and you'd end up a bright shade of blue! The rooftops all around were covered with animal skins drying in the sun. While a bit disturbing to see, it gave us a new appreciation for the leather goods in the shops.
Our Beautiful Riad: A 120-Year-Old Haven
We stayed in the most amazing traditional riad through Airbnb, and I just have to tell you about it! This 120-year-old building was a perfect example of traditional Moroccan architecture and design.
From the beautiful courtyard entrance with its mosaic tiles and carved details to the hobbit-like doors leading to different rooms, every corner was filled with character. The riad had multiple levels, each with gorgeously decorated bedrooms featuring hand-carved details, painted ceilings, and traditional furnishings.
The best part was the rooftop terrace, where we could see across the entire medina to the surrounding mountains and the ancient wall enclosing the old city. For just €18 per night (including a delicious homemade breakfast!), it was an incredible value and a truly authentic experience.
Delicious Moroccan Food in Fez
Food was definitely one of the highlights of our trip to Fez. We enjoyed amazing chicken tajine with olives and lemon that was absolutely delicious - the aromas hit us as soon as the lid was removed!
For dinner one night, we ventured down what looked like a rather shady alleyway in search of a restaurant called Cafe Clock that supposedly had gluten-free options. The narrow path opened up to reveal the most beautiful riad with multiple levels and a stunning rooftop terrace overlooking a minaret.
Their lamb tajine was unforgettable - tender meat that fell off the bone, served with prunes, apricots, almonds, and a caramelized onion sauce. The meal even came with live music performance!
Throughout the city, we also noticed many stands selling fresh orange juice - a refreshing treat in the Moroccan heat. Sweet, fresh, and absolutely delicious!
The Carpet Experience: Be Careful of Scammers!
I have to warn you about one experience we had - the infamous carpet shop visit. Many tourists get led to carpet shops where the owners put on quite a show. They serve you mint tea (it's the "hospitality of the house") and then begin rolling out carpet after carpet.
We sat through what felt like carpet number 100 being unfurled before us! First, they roll out everything they have, then they ask you to eliminate the ones you don't like, gradually narrowing it down. It's a pretty clever sales technique, actually.
Once we had eliminated all but one carpet, the real negotiation began. The first price quoted was an outrageous €2,160! We immediately stood to leave, but they insisted we counter-offer. When we suggested €300, they launched into an emotional story about how 350 women created that particular carpet and how our purchase would change their lives and their children's lives.
As we were about to walk out the door, the seller suddenly agreed to our €300 price - making it obvious the original price was a massive scam. We ended up not buying anything because the whole experience left us feeling uncomfortable. So be careful - the tea, the carpets, the negotiations are all part of a big production designed to separate you from your money!
Tips for Visiting Fez Morocco
If you're planning a trip to Fez, here are some helpful tips from my experience:
- Allow plenty of time - There is so much to see in the medina, and getting lost is part of the experience. You could walk around for days and still discover new things.
- Stay in a traditional riad - It's the most authentic way to experience Fez, and many are surprisingly affordable.
- Use Google Maps, but expect to get lost anyway - The medina is designed like a maze, so embrace the confusion!
- Be cautious of "guides" and shop owners - Many will try to lead you to their shops or demand payment for directions.
- Visit the Blue Gate - This beautiful entrance to the medina is covered in blue mosaic tiles and makes for great photos.
- Explore in the morning - The medina is less crowded and cooler earlier in the day.
- Look up and around - Some of the best architectural details are above eye level.
- Be prepared for sensory overload - The sights, sounds, and smells can be overwhelming at first, but that's part of the charm!
Final Thoughts on Fez
Fez was unlike any place I've ever visited. The ancient medina, with its maze-like streets and hidden treasures, felt like stepping back in time. From the magnificent riads to the skilled craftspeople, from the aromatic food to the friendly locals, Fez offers an authentic glimpse into Moroccan culture and history.
While places like Marrakech might get more attention from tourists, I found Fez to be more authentic and less commercialized. The city has preserved its traditional character in a way that feels genuine rather than performative for tourists.
If you're looking to experience the real Morocco, put Fez at the top of your list. Just be prepared to get lost, both literally in the medina and figuratively in the magic of this incredible city!
Have you been to Fez? What was your favorite discovery in the ancient medina? Share your experiences in the comments below - I'd love to hear about them!