The ancient call to prayer echoes across the terracotta rooftops as I sip mint tea on our riad's rooftop terrace. Below, the maze-like alleyways of Fes El Bali come alive with the morning rhythm of Morocco's oldest imperial city. Two weeks into our Moroccan adventure, I've discovered something more precious than any souvenir I could bring home – the incredible Moroccan hospitality that transforms visitors into family.
After battling a nasty virus that left us bedridden for our first two weeks (with a hospital visit thrown in for good measure), we were finally ready to experience Morocco properly. Our journey from Casablanca to Fes on a first-class train marked the real beginning of our adventure, and what followed was a masterclass in what makes Morocco special – its people.
First Taste of Fes: Breakfast with a View
Moroccan hospitality
Our introduction to authentic Moroccan hospitality began with breakfast on our guesthouse rooftop. The spread was simple yet perfect – various jams, honey, cheese, and olive oil, accompanied by fresh juice and the ubiquitous mint tea. The star of the show? Fresh Moroccan bread that reminded me how much I missed proper European-style bread after months in Asia where toast-ready squares are the norm.
While savoring our meal, we gazed out at the sprawling ancient city, watching life unfold beneath us. The 1,236-year-old medina of Fes El Bali (the oldest part of the city) stretched before us, a living museum where donkeys still serve as the main transportation method through streets too narrow for cars.
"I miss this kind of bread," I told my partner between bites. "In Asia, bread is just like for the toaster, that square thing for toast. But this is amazing!"
Lost in the Living Maze: Exploring Fes El Bali
Stepping out from our guesthouse, we immediately encountered our first donkey – a reminder that in Fes, traditions remain unaltered by time. We passed through the magnificent Blue Gate (Bab Boujloud), the ornate entrance marking the threshold between modern life and a world preserved from centuries past.
Inside, the sensory experience became overwhelming. Narrow alleyways twisted in impossible directions, each one lined with vendors selling everything from traditional sweets dripping with honey to intricate metalwork. The vibrant colors of Moroccan art exploded around every corner – a stark contrast to the minimalist aesthetic that dominates Western design.
"It's a complete opposite to aesthetic painting," my partner observed. "This is like a splash of color to your eyes."
The medina is genuinely labyrinthine, with over 9,000 tiny streets and alleyways. Before Google Maps, I wondered how locals navigated this human-sized puzzle. Many still don't rely on technology, having memorized these paths since childhood.
Walking through Fes feels like stepping onto a movie set, suddenly teleported thousands of years into the past. The ancient buildings, some dating back to the 9th century, lean toward each other across narrow passages, creating an intimate architecture unlike anything in modern cities.
The Taste of Morocco: Coffee, Markets, and Feasts
Our exploration led us to a small stall where a man prepared what he called "Arabic coffee" – though the aroma suggested something entirely different from what we expected. Brewed with sand from the Sahara desert and infused with ginger, cardamom, and cinnamon, the strong, herbal concoction barely resembled coffee at all.
"My brain cells right now," joked my partner after a sip of the potent brew, making an exploding gesture with her hands.
Later, we discovered a small local restaurant serving authentic Moroccan cuisine at incredibly reasonable prices. For just 40 dirhams (about $4) per dish, we feasted on bubbling hot tajine and fluffy couscous with tender meat.
The meat was so incredibly soft it practically melted in our mouths. The complex blend of spices created flavors that were simultaneously familiar and exotic. No wonder Moroccan cuisine has such a stellar reputation worldwide.
"We're either really hungry or this is really delicious," I said between bites.
"It feels like home food," my partner replied. "It reminds me of Russian home cooking."
For just 130 dirhams (about $13), we enjoyed one of the most satisfying meals of our trip – a feast that would have cost three times as much in European or American cities.
The Art of the Deal: Shopping with Moroccan Silver Merchants
No visit to a Moroccan medina is complete without experiencing the famous negotiation culture. In a silver shop, we watched as the merchant demonstrated the authenticity of his wares through a simple acid test.
"If there's silver, they stay blue. If no silver, it's gone," he explained, applying a drop of acid to different metal pieces. When our silver bracelet from Bali passed the test, he exclaimed: "You are a lucky man! She has silver!"
What followed was the dance of negotiation. Starting at 180 dirhams, we countered with 100. He came down to 140, we held firm at 100, and finally, we agreed on 120 dirhams.
"You'll be happy with your boyfriend," he assured my partner with a smile. "No problem."
The merchants of Fes are masters of persuasion. As one silversmith named Mustafa told us, "I am the one who can make you a good price for everything." Their friendly persistence makes it nearly impossible to walk away without a purchase, especially once you've entered their shop.
The Tanneries: An Authentic (and Aromatic) Experience
One of Fes's most famous attractions is its ancient tanneries, where animal hides are transformed into fine leather using methods unchanged since medieval times. As we approached, locals handed us sprigs of mint to hold beneath our noses – our first hint of what was to come.
The smell hit us immediately – an overwhelming pungent odor that even the strongest mint couldn't fully mask. Workers waded through vats filled with natural dyes and processing liquids, their legs submerged up to their knees.
Our guide explained that the tanning process uses natural ingredients, including pigeon droppings (which contain ammonia), lime, and various plant extracts. The tannery dates back to the 11th century, with 218 people still working there using traditional methods.
"Pigeon poop has acid ammonia," our guide explained matter-of-factly. "Makes leather soft."
When we asked how workers cope with the smell, he shrugged: "Work 30 years in here. No problem. It's natural. When you finish, you make shower."
The colors used in the dyeing process are equally natural – yellow from saffron, brown from cedar wood, blue from indigo, red from poppy flowers, and white from jasmine. UNESCO has provided modern equipment to help dry and soften the leather, but the core process remains untouched by time.
After seeing raw hides transformed into supple leather, we browsed the factory shop, where the finished products were displayed. The quality was exceptional – soft, flexible, and crafted with generations of expertise.
The Hammam Experience: Renewed in Body and Spirit
After a full day exploring the medina, we decided to try another Moroccan tradition – the hammam, or public bath. We visited Riad Laroussa, a traditional guesthouse with a beautiful central courtyard and water fountain.
Inside the steam room, the heat opened our pores as attendants used special gloves to thoroughly scrub away dead skin. The amount of dirt removed was shocking, even though we'd showered just the day before.
"It looks like I didn't shower for one year," I laughed, looking at the evidence.
Afterward, my skin felt as soft as a baby's, thoroughly cleansed and renewed. The hammam experience is more than just bathing – it's a cultural ritual that cleanses both body and spirit.
A Sweet and Savory Ending: Dinner at a Family Restaurant
For dinner, we discovered a family-run restaurant serving traditional Moroccan dishes in a cozy, welcoming atmosphere. The staff greeted us with genuine smiles and warm hospitality that made us feel instantly at home.
We tried pastilla, a unique Moroccan pie that beautifully showcases the country's blend of sweet and savory flavors. The flaky pastry was dusted with cinnamon and powdered sugar on the outside, while the inside contained savory spiced chicken.
"I'm so confused about whether this is the main dish or dessert," my partner said, taking another bite.
The contrasting flavors somehow worked perfectly together – sweet, savory, crispy, and tender all in one dish. We followed it with a tomato and eggplant dish that provided the perfect balance to the sweetness of the pastilla.
Throughout our meal, the restaurant staff treated us like family, teaching us new Arabic words and bringing us mint tea with professional flair. The grandmother who owned the place watched from behind the counter, smiling at our enjoyment of her family recipes.
The entire feast – multiple dishes, fresh juices, and mint tea – cost just $17, an incredible value for such quality and authenticity.
Beyond Tourism: Exploring the Real Morocco
On our second day, we ventured to the world's oldest continually operating university and discovered fascinating aspects of Moroccan culture that most tourists miss.
Walking through the city, we noticed signs written in a script distinctly different from Arabic. This was Tifinagh, the alphabet of the Berber language (Amazigh), which dates back nearly 3,000 years to ancient Egypt. The geometric patterns of triangles, circles, and lines represent one of Morocco's two official languages, alongside Arabic.
We visited a 700-year-old madrasa (school), where students once prepared for university by studying religion, philosophy, and mathematics. The architecture was breathtaking – intricate woodwork, colorful patterns, and stunning stone carvings adorned every surface.
The tiny student rooms upstairs initially reminded us of jail cells, with their small windows and exterior locks. We later learned these were safety measures – teachers would lock students in at night to protect them in times when the city wasn't safe, then release them in the morning.
The View from Above: Seeing Fes in Perspective
To complete our Fes experience, we sought a viewpoint to see the ancient city from above. Following local directions, we found ourselves on an unusual path through a cemetery, where donkeys wandered freely among the graves.
Though the journey was strange, the destination rewarded us with a magnificent panorama of Fes El Bali. From this vantage point, the medina truly resembled a maze – an organic, living structure that had grown over twelve centuries without the benefit of urban planning.
Our guide told us an interesting story about how some local people came to live in their homes. When the French colonial period ended, many French residents abandoned their luxurious homes. Enterprising locals supposedly found ways to enter through balconies and claim these empty residences as their own.
Whether legend or truth, the story speaks to the resourcefulness and resilience of Moroccan people who have survived countless historical changes while maintaining their unique cultural identity.
The True Heart of Morocco: Its People
What made our time in Fes special wasn't just the ancient architecture or the flavorful food – it was the genuine warmth of the Moroccan hospitality we encountered at every turn. From the restaurant owners who treated us like family to the street vendors who shared their stories, the people of Morocco transformed our journey from a typical tourist experience into something deeply personal.
In a world where travel often feels commodified and impersonal, Morocco offers something increasingly rare – authentic human connection. The tradition of hospitality runs deep here, and the joy of welcoming strangers is woven into the cultural fabric as intricately as the patterns in their famous carpets.
As we prepared to leave Fes for our next Moroccan destination, I felt a twinge of sadness. In just two days, this ancient city had worked its way into my heart, largely because of the people who opened their lives and traditions to us.
Tips for Experiencing Authentic Moroccan Hospitality
If you're planning your own Moroccan adventure, here are some tips to help you experience the same incredible hospitality we found:
- Stay in a traditional riad rather than a large hotel. These converted homes with central courtyards offer a more authentic experience and often include homemade breakfasts.
- Learn a few Arabic phrases. Even simple greetings like "Salam" (hello) or "Shukran" (thank you) will be appreciated and open doors to warmer interactions.
- Accept invitations when they feel safe and appropriate. If a shopkeeper offers tea or a family invites you to share a meal, these are precious opportunities to experience genuine Moroccan hospitality.
- Respect local customs, especially during Ramadan. Dress modestly, be discreet about eating in public during fasting hours, and be patient with adjusted business hours.
- Try the hammam experience. These public baths are an important social institution and will leave you feeling renewed.
- Eat where the locals eat. Follow the crowds to small, family-run restaurants rather than tourist-oriented establishments. The food will be more authentic and affordable.
- Embrace the art of negotiation in markets, but remember that fair prices benefit both you and the merchant. The goal isn't to pay as little as possible but to reach a price that feels good to everyone.
The Lingering Warmth of Morocco
As our train pulled away from Fes station, I reflected on what makes travel truly meaningful. It's not checking off attractions from a list or capturing perfect photos – it's the moments of connection that change how we see the world and ourselves.
The Moroccan hospitality we experienced wasn't just about service or tourism. It was about being welcomed into a culture that values human relationships above all else. In a fast-paced world where efficiency often trumps empathy, Morocco reminded us how it feels when strangers treat you like family.
Have you experienced the legendary hospitality of Morocco? Or do you have questions about traveling to Fes? Share your thoughts in the comments below – I'd love to hear your stories and help with your Moroccan adventure planning!
This article is based on a personal travel experience to Fes, Morocco. Prices and experiences mentioned were accurate at the time of visit but may vary.