Stepping through the ancient clay walls of Marrakesh, Morocco, feels like traveling back in time. The moment you enter the medina, you're greeted by a labyrinth of narrow streets filled with donkey carts, artisans at work, and the enticing aroma of street food. As someone who's explored numerous cities across North Africa, I can tell you that Marrakesh offers an experience unlike any other.
Join me as I share my whirlwind 48-hour adventure in Morocco's most famous city, from navigating the maze-like souks to escaping to a peaceful oasis hidden within the bustling medina walls.
Getting to Marrakesh: The Train Experience
My journey to Marrakesh began in Casablanca, where I boarded a train heading south. For around $30, I secured a first-class ticket for the three-hour ride. While "first class" might conjure images of luxury, the reality was quite different – no air conditioning on a sweltering day, basic facilities (the bathroom sink had no running water), and a packed cabin that seated six people.
Despite these challenges, the train journey offered beautiful glimpses of Morocco's changing landscape. As we moved farther from Casablanca, the scenery gradually transformed from urban sprawl to glimpses of desert terrain – a preview of the Sahara adventures that awaited later in my trip.
Travel Tip: First-class train tickets in Morocco are relatively affordable (about $30), but don't expect European standards of "first class." Come prepared with water, snacks, and perhaps a handheld fan during summer months!
First Impressions of the Red City
Arriving at Marrakesh station, I was immediately struck by how different it felt from Casablanca. Palm trees lined the streets, giving the city a more tropical feel, and there was a notable police presence that made the area feel secure.
The city gets its nickname "The Red City" from the distinctive clay and chalk walls that surround the historic medina, giving the buildings their characteristic reddish hue. These ancient walls, built nearly a thousand years ago when Marrakesh served as an imperial city, still stand as a testament to the city's historical significance.
Where to Stay in Marrakesh
For my short stay, I chose an Airbnb in the Gueliz district, which provided a perfect middle ground between the train station and the historic medina. At around $100 per night, the modern apartment offered amenities like a washing machine and even a bedroom projector – though with so much to explore, I barely spent time using it!
Accommodation Options:
- Budget: Hostels within the medina walls (from $15-30/night)
- Mid-range: Airbnbs in Gueliz district ($50-120/night)
- Luxury: Traditional riads in the medina (from $150/night)
If you have the budget, I highly recommend staying in a traditional riad – these historic Moroccan houses feature interior gardens or courtyards and offer a more authentic experience.
Exploring the Marrakesh Medina
The highlight of any visit to Marrakesh is undoubtedly exploring the UNESCO World Heritage-listed medina. This ancient walled city is a photographer's paradise and a sensory adventure.
The Magical Souks
The souks (markets) of Marrakesh go on for what seems like forever – narrow alleyways lined with shops selling everything from intricate leather goods and colorful textiles to brass lamps and traditional Moroccan spices.
What struck me most was watching artisans at work, many spending hours crafting items that would sell for just a few dollars. I witnessed leather workers punching holes in belts, metalsmiths creating intricate lanterns, and textile workers weaving bright fabrics – all using techniques passed down through generations.
Shopping Tip: Vendors expect you to haggle, but remember that many items represent hours of craftsmanship. Start at about 40% of the initial asking price and negotiate respectfully.
Sweet Discoveries
While wandering through the labyrinthine streets, I stumbled upon a pastry shop that caught my eye – "Pastry Belkabir." The friendly owner, Hajj Belkabir, invited me to try various traditional Moroccan sweets, including almond and coconut pastries, and the famous horn-shaped treats filled with marzipan. His family business has been operating for over 60 years, and the warmth of his hospitality was as sweet as his pastries!
A Hidden Oasis: The 1112 Tea House
One of my most memorable experiences in Marrakesh came from a completely unplanned discovery. While navigating the busy souks, I noticed an unassuming doorway with a small sign reading "1112 Tea House." From the street, you'd never guess what lay behind that rendered wall.
Stepping inside, I found myself in a stunning tropical riad – a traditional Moroccan house with a central garden. The 1112 Tea House offered a peaceful sanctuary away from the hustle and bustle of the medina streets.
I ordered a delicate rose petal tea and a traditional Moroccan honey, almond, and cinnamon dessert – the same treat locals eat during Ramadan for energy. What made this experience truly special was meeting the owner, who explained that his family has restored more than 100 riads throughout Marrakesh and Fez as part of their mission to preserve Morocco's architectural heritage.
He shared that the word "riad" means "garden" in Arabic, and traditionally these family homes featured central courtyards to provide natural cooling and privacy. Today, many have been converted into boutique hotels and cafés.
Local Insight: When exploring the medina, look for unassuming doorways that might lead to hidden treasures. Some of the most beautiful spaces in Marrakesh are concealed behind plain exterior walls.
Jemaa el-Fnaa Square: Excitement and Caution
No visit to Marrakesh would be complete without experiencing the famous Jemaa el-Fnaa square – the beating heart of the medina. By day, the square buzzes with juice sellers and food stalls, but as evening approaches, it transforms into a carnival-like atmosphere with musicians, storytellers, and street performers.
While the square is undoubtedly fascinating, it's also where you need to be most vigilant. Street performers, including the famous snake charmers, can be quite aggressive in trying to get you to take photos with them – and then demanding large sums of money.
Important Warning: If you want to photograph the snake charmers or other performers, negotiate the price clearly beforehand. They may try to place snakes on your shoulders or take your camera before discussing payment, potentially leading to uncomfortable situations.
During my visit, despite having a small amount of money visibly ready to pay (about $2), performers quickly placed a snake around my neck and tried to demand much more (around $20). While I managed to negotiate down, it's an experience I wasn't expecting and one you should be prepared for.
Beyond the Medina Walls
While most of Marrakesh's charm lies within its ancient walls, the modern city outside offers a stark contrast. You'll find familiar international chains like McDonald's and KFC alongside traditional Moroccan eateries.
The juxtaposition of old and new is part of what makes Marrakesh so fascinating – one moment you're in a 1,000-year-old market with donkey carts, and the next you're in a modern café with high-speed WiFi.
Practical Tips for Visiting Marrakesh
- Stay Connected: Having a working phone is essential for navigation and safety. Consider getting an eSIM before your trip for affordable data.
- Learn Basic Phrases: While English is spoken in tourist areas, knowing a few words in Arabic or French goes a long way.
- Dress Respectfully: Morocco is a Muslim country. While Marrakesh is accustomed to tourists, modest clothing is appreciated, especially in the medina.
- Be Aware of Scams: Beyond the performers in Jemaa el-Fnaa, watch out for unofficial "guides" who offer to show you around and then demand payment.
- Early Morning Exploring: The medina is most magical (and least crowded) in the early morning hours. It's also cooler, which is important during the hot summer months.
- Hydrate: The Moroccan sun is intense. Carry water and seek shade regularly.
Beyond Marrakesh: Day Trips and Extensions
While 48 hours is enough to get a taste of Marrakesh, the city also serves as a perfect gateway to other Moroccan wonders:
- Aït Benhaddou: This preserved fortified village made from clay is a UNESCO World Heritage site and famous filming location for movies like Gladiator and Game of Thrones (about 4 hours from Marrakesh).
- Atlas Mountains: Experience breathtaking mountain scenery and traditional Berber villages just a couple of hours from the city.
- Sahara Desert: For the ultimate Moroccan adventure, continue east to the magnificent sand dunes of the Sahara.
Is 48 Hours in Marrakesh Enough?
Two days allows you to experience the highlights of Marrakesh, but I left wishing I had at least one more day to wander the medina at a more leisurely pace. The city reveals itself slowly, with hidden gems tucked away in the most unassuming corners.
If you're short on time, focus on the medina, Jemaa el-Fnaa, and perhaps one specific palace or garden. If you have longer, consider day trips to the Atlas Mountains or nearby historic sites.
Final Thoughts on Marrakesh
Marrakesh is a city of contrasts – ancient and modern, chaotic and serene, frustrating and enchanting. It's a place where you'll find yourself lost (both literally and figuratively) and discover unexpected beauty in the process.
Despite the occasional challenges and cultural adjustments, Marrakesh offers an authenticity that's increasingly rare in our globalized world. The city demands that you engage with it on its own terms, rewarding those who approach with curiosity, patience, and an open heart.
Have you been to Marrakesh? I'd love to hear about your experiences in the comments below! Or if you're planning a trip and have questions, feel free to ask – I'm happy to share more insights from my time in Morocco's most famous city.