Morocco: The Hidden Treasure of Maghreb – A Personal Journey

My First Encounter with Morocco's Magic

I still remember the first time I set foot in Morocco, the hidden treasure of Maghreb. The vibrant colors, the intoxicating scents of spices, and the warm smiles of locals immediately captured my heart. Morocco isn't just a destination; it's a unique experience where every corner reveals cultural richness measured by the simplicity and grandeur of age-old gestures.

From watching craftsmen work in tiny shops to exploring sumptuous palaces, traveling through Morocco feels like an initiation into something profound. The people truly are the vibrant heart of this enchanting kingdom, and I'm excited to share this journey with you!

Rabat: Where History Meets Tranquility

My exploration began in Rabat, Morocco's political capital. Walking along the thick ramparts of the old town citadel, I was struck by its peaceful atmosphere. The view from here is breathtaking—you can watch fishermen coming and going with the rhythm of the tides.

What fascinated me was how these peaceful landscapes hide a more eventful past. From the 15th century, European powers and pirates explored this coastline, which explains all the fortifications you'll see. Just across the estuary sits Salé, Rabat's great rival and once a notorious pirate haven!

When you pass through the fortress walls, you'll experience a striking contrast. The warlike exterior gives way to enchanting narrow streets with blue and white facades. It's a magical labyrinth where shadow and light play games, and the sun constantly reinterprets the urban landscape. I found myself happily getting lost here, walking in the shade and occasionally catching a refreshing sea breeze.

Don't miss the Houdayas Gate, built in the 12th century from red ochre stone—it's a beautiful example of how art and war sometimes complement each other perfectly. And make sure to visit the Garden of the Dead (it's not as morbid as it sounds!), a peaceful haven where locals come to stroll.

The Heart of Moroccan Cities: The Medina Experience

In every Moroccan city, the medina is its soul. The word simply means "city" in Arabic, but these ancient quarters are so much more—they're shopping centers, meeting places, and living museums all at once.

What Makes Medinas Special

Walking through any medina, you'll find a world of colors, sounds, and scents. The shops specialize in everything from carpets to leather goods. While they might seem like tourist traps, these bustling places actually employ thousands of locals and primarily serve Moroccan customers.

I love visiting the souks (markets) in the medinas—they're a paradise for food lovers! Moroccan cuisine is recognized as one of the world's finest, with an incredible range of flavors based on quality ingredients. The displays of fruits and spices are so beautifully arranged they immediately make you hungry!

Don't be shy about trying local specialties like gazelle horns, shebaqya, and baklawa—sweet treats made with honey, almonds, and sesame that are especially popular during Ramadan. And of course, you must sample the fresh mint, olives, and dates that give Morocco its distinctive taste. The vendors often throw in a smile as a bonus!

The Hidden Treasure of Maghreb: Imperial Cities

Meknes: A City of Magnificence

After Rabat, I headed to Meknes, another imperial city that showcases the grandeur of Morocco's Alaouite sovereigns. Built by Moulay Ismaïl (a contemporary of Louis XIV), Meknes reflects his vision of magnificence.

When night falls and the city lights up, the enchanting setting is perfectly complemented by calls to prayer from the great mosque. What struck me most was the vitality of Moroccan youth—30% of the population is under 15! It's both a blessing and a challenge for a country investing in education to create a new future.

The Bab el Mansour gate, considered Morocco's most beautiful, marks the city limits with its fine decorations. Just opposite is El Emid Square, where you can watch street performers entertain amused crowds.

If you visit Meknes, you must see the ancient fonduk (merchant inn) with its incredibly elaborate ornamentation, and the Medersa (Koranic school) with decoration worthy of a princely palace. These buildings are organized around central courtyards with fountains, showcasing some of Morocco's finest architectural details.

Fez: Cultural Capital of Morocco

Guardian of Arab-Andalusian civilization, Fez claims the title of Morocco's cultural capital. The valley seems too narrow to hold such a profusion of cleverly nested palaces, houses, and mosques. Populated by skilled artisans, wise merchants, and scholars, Fez is both educated and commercial.

Walking through the Fez medina (a UNESCO World Heritage site) feels like stepping back in time. I spent hours wandering almost at random, discovering countless historical treasures and tiny shops. Every turn brings new movements, colors, noises, and cries—the charm is overwhelming!

One hidden gem I discovered was the Glaoui Palace, which hides behind anonymous gray walls. Though now abandoned and in need of restoration, it was once the most sumptuous palace in the medina with 17 houses, two large gardens, and a Koranic school. Only cats and a passionate guardian named Abdu Boukhar live there now. Born within its walls (his grandfather was a steward for the pasha of Marrakech), Abdu tries to preserve these timeless places with his limited resources.

Fez is also famous for its ceramics—a tradition dating back to antiquity that reached new heights when Andalusian masters arrived in the 19th century. The precision work creates truly unique pieces.

The medina of Fez serves as a conservatory of traditional trades, some surviving almost miraculously. Following the path taken by donkeys loaded with skins, I reached the tannery district. Despite the overwhelming smell, it was fascinating to watch the tanners at work, each with a specific role from cleaning skins to coloring leather. The process involves lime baths, water rinsing, and immersion in tannic solutions—methods that have changed little over centuries.

Another must-see in Fez is the Karawiyine Mosque, the city's largest, built in 933. Each new dynasty ruler wanted to leave their mark, resulting in incredible ornamentation throughout this massive structure.

Journey to the Great South

The Road Less Traveled

After crossing the Middle Atlas, the scenery changed dramatically. The Todra Gorges offered a perfect introduction to the mysterious atmosphere of Morocco's Great South. In Tinnerir, I found a palm grove that was a paradise of freshness and greenery amid an arid environment—a fragile ecosystem requiring constant human care.

The wealth of these palm groves comes from date palms, which produce between 30-100 kilos of dates depending on their size. Their roots are enormous, absorbing 300-700 liters of water daily. After picking, the dates are sorted right at the foot of the tree—some varieties are fleshy and sweet, while others are dried directly on house roofs.

These palm groves don't just grow dates; they also shelter fruit trees and small fields of vegetables, cereals, and fodder, providing relative food autonomy for residents. Some even have tea and tobacco plantations. All plots are bordered by small walls facilitating an efficient irrigation system.

The architecture in this region is fascinating—typical rammed earth dwellings made from moistened earth mixed with straw and gravel. The walls at the base are more than 80 centimeters thick, built on stone or pebble foundations. These structures have existed for hundreds of years, resisting sun and rain remarkably well.

Ouarzazate: Gateway to the Desert

Continuing south, I reached Ouarzazate, aptly nicknamed the Gateway to the Desert. In summer, temperatures exceed 40 degrees! Nearby, the Bouman palm grove at the mouth of the Dades River is suffering from Bayou, a destructive fungus. Despite this challenge, the town remains central to the date trade for the entire region.

At the local market, farmers negotiate their products enthusiastically. Dates are important in the Moroccan diet and also serve as a sign of welcome—like offering a glass of milk or cup of tea to travelers and friends.

Near Ouarzazate stands the impressive casbah of Armedili, built by the master of the Glaoui Koran and still occasionally inhabited by its owner. Then there's Tiphultut with its pale ochre rammed earth casbah (though poorly restored) that gained fame as a setting for the film "Lawrence of Arabia."

The most impressive sight in this area is the ksar (fortified village) of Haït Benadou, where a few families still live in tightly packed dwellings sheltered by a blind rampart. It's the most impressive ksar in all of Morocco!

Marrakech: The Red City

No journey through Morocco would be complete without experiencing Marrakech with its splendid ramparts facing the Atlas Mountains. My first stop was Menara, a sought-after oasis with a monumental basin created in the 12th century to irrigate palace gardens. Bordered by a huge 90-hectare olive grove, it's a park treasured for its calm and freshness.

The famous Koutoubia minaret, considered a pure jewel of Hispano-Moorish architecture, has been the city's symbol for eight centuries. Each side offers different decoration along its 70-meter height.

Walking the full ramparts of Marrakech would take you 19 kilometers! The enclosure, built in 1130 and enlarged during successive expansions of the medina, has been regularly restored throughout history.

The medina of Marrakech is wonderfully complex, bearing witness to more than 1,000 years of history where each dynasty left its mark. I found myself carried away as if in a dream, one beauty following another. The medina is cleverly divided by trades—in the dyers' souk, fabrics dry above the stalls in a rainbow of colors made from natural pigments.

Behind anonymous walls, I discovered stunning riads (traditional houses with interior gardens). Many have been restored and adapted to Western tastes, becoming luxurious residences sought after by tourists and celebrities alike. These havens of peace offer a glimpse into princely living.

The highlight of Marrakech has to be Jemaa el-Fna square, a true center of attraction. Many small streets lead there, and the square has a special atmosphere all its own. Both tourists and locals gather to watch storytellers, magicians, various artists, and snake charmers. Despite its joyful chaos, the square is organized according to strict rules respected by the different brotherhoods that perform there.

At sunset during Ramadan, I watched as preparations began for fthor, the meal that breaks the fast. Outdoor restaurants filled immediately after the call to prayer. Typically, the meal begins with harira (a rich soup made from lentils and chickpeas), accompanied by berries and honeycomb pancakes served with melted butter and honey. The competition between restaurants is fierce—chefs not only prepare excellent food but also create a lively atmosphere to attract customers.

Coastal Treasures

Essaouira: The White City by the Sea

From Marrakech, I traveled toward the sea across arid plains and forests of tuyas and argan trees to reach Essaouira (formerly Mogador). This citadel perched on rocks was shaped by the Portuguese, then by the Alawite dynasties.

The port's staircase with its battery of Spanish cannons is impressive, and the city is dotted with remnants of its tumultuous history. Today, however, Essaouira moves at a completely different pace—families sunbathe quietly along the ramparts while keeping an eye on their children's homework.

The port, formerly called "the port of Timbuktu," was built in the 18th century and remains a major Atlantic coast harbor. On the docks, fishmongers compete for customers while seagulls feast on scraps.

Some compare Essaouira to Saint-Malo, the French corsair city, and there are indeed comparable features. Beyond the ramparts, the city extends through long streets in the medina, including the Mellah (old Jewish quarter) now abandoned by original families.

True to local tradition, the Gnawas (descendants of former slaves) perform their renowned trance music here. As one local told me, "It is music that tells the story of slaves... spiritual trance music." Appreciated by musicians like Jimi Hendrix and Robert Plant, Gnawa music remains alive, and Essaouira hosts an annual world music festival.

The city is also known for its woodworking—marquetry and inlay work with thuja and argan wood that delicately perfume the workshops. The pipe-stained tables, encrusted with mother-of-pearl and silver thread, require incredible craftsmanship.

With its temperate year-round climate, Essaouira is perfect for leisurely coastal strolls, especially as tourism hasn't overwhelmed it yet. Across the harbor, the traditional shipyard still builds wooden dhows and trawlers using ancient techniques and tools.

For many years, Essaouira was the world's leading sardine port. Moroccan fishing is the most important in Africa thanks to its particularly rich Atlantic coast. In the morning, watching boats unload their catch is a spectacle itself—a technique that empties boats and clears quay space in record time.

Beyond the Tourist Trail

Leaving Essaouira toward the south, I found long deserted beaches disturbed only by the occasional passing camel. In Imsouane, cliffs replaced beaches, offering magnificent waves for the few surfers who know this "endless right."

Agadir isn't just a large seaside resort but also the major fishing port on the Atlantic coast and one of the world's most important sardine ports. More than forty canneries process these resources nearby.

South of Agadir, banana plantations create oases of freshness in an otherwise desert area. The region provides 60% of Morocco's banana production. Another local specialty is argan oil and paste made from argan tree almonds—highly sought after for its taste and health benefits (it reportedly limits high blood pressure risk) and used in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

Continuing south, I reached Tiznit, known for its Berber crafts. Though relatively new (the ramparts date from the 19th century), the metalwork here is meticulous—metal wires twisted, flattened, and rolled into fine openwork patterns. This jewelry tradition combines metals like silver and bronze with geometric designs that maintain great nobility and purity.

A Final Sunset: The Perfect Ending

My journey ended at Sidi Rbat, domain of troglodyte fishermen who, in winter when the swell is powerful, don't hesitate to leave the fish alone to go surfing! The overturned boats expose their blue hulls to the sun in front of cave dwellings, while fishermen hunt octopus between the rocks.

It's a little corner of paradise for sea lovers—away from tourist crowds and perfect for soaking up the sensations of a day's end by the ocean. As I watched the sunset one last time, I reflected on all the wonders I'd seen—images of an enchanted Morocco which, on the immensity of its beaches, unfold like the sweetness of a dream.

Have You Explored Morocco's Hidden Treasures?

Have you visited any of these magical places in Morocco? Or perhaps you're planning your first trip to this hidden treasure of Maghreb? I'd love to hear about your experiences or answer any questions you might have about traveling in Morocco.

Drop a comment below or reach out to me directly—I'm always happy to help fellow travelers discover the authentic side of this enchanting kingdom!