There's something magical about the Agafay Desert that keeps drawing me back. Just a short drive from the bustling streets of Marrakech lies this stone desert with undulating dunes and breathtaking views of the Atlas Mountains. While it might not have the golden sand dunes of the Sahara, the Agafay offers an accessible desert experience without the long journey — perfect for travelers with limited time in Morocco.
After exploring several luxury camps in this stunning landscape, I'm excited to share my personal experiences with you. If you're dreaming of a desert getaway where adventure meets comfort, these camps should be at the top of your list.
Caravan Agafay by Our Habitas: A Hedonist's Paradise
Imagine waking up in a traditional Berber-style tent, stepping onto your private terrace, and being greeted by the sun rising over the Atlas Mountains. This is the daily reality at Caravan Agafay by Our Habitas, a dreamy basecamp that perfectly balances natural immersion with luxurious comfort.
The camp features 40 beautifully designed Berber-style tents, including two exclusive suites. What struck me immediately was the thoughtful incorporation of local craftsmanship — every tent is furnished with pieces sourced from Marrakech souks and local artisans. Think oversized Berber rugs, fine Moroccan linens, giant leather poufs, and beautifully crafted lanterns that cast enchanting patterns when lit at night.
For those seeking more space, I'd recommend the Dune or Desert Lodges, though the Atlas Lodge truly stands out with its expansive private deck — perfect for private stargazing sessions that will leave you speechless.
What I Loved:
- The Culinary Experience: Breakfast at Olivar restaurant is a feast of freshly baked breads, waffles, fruit bowls, confit-tomato quiche, and banana bread with coffee mousse. Their traditional Moroccan dishes are authentic, and their mint tea? Simply perfection.
- The Two Pools: The main pool near the bar offers spectacular desert views (and cocktail service!), while the second pool is ideally positioned for sunrise and sunset dips with native birds for company.
- The Activities: This is where Caravan Agafay truly shines. Dune buggying across the landscape, camel rides at sunset, and alfresco dance sessions under the stars create memories that will last a lifetime.
- Evening Atmosphere: As someone who appreciates both tranquility and social connection, I loved how the evenings here transform with hibiscus cocktails and subtle entertainment that never feels forced.
The spa treatments incorporating argan oil and local techniques were the perfect way to recover after a day of desert adventures. While the camp is generally accessible, I should mention that the rustic stone paths might prove challenging for guests with mobility issues.
Inara Camp: Intimate Desert Escapism
My stay at Inara Camp was the epitome of desert escapism. Located in a more secluded section of the Agafay, this intimate retreat of just 19 tented suites offers a different but equally captivating experience.
Owner Vincent has created five other glamping sites before this one, and his expertise is evident in every detail. The tents here aren't just comfortable — they're genuinely luxurious. My Emotion tent featured a cloud-like kingsize bed, surprisingly powerful shower, and beautiful details from local artists.
For families or those wanting extra space, the Inara Suite (accommodating up to 4 people) and the Agafay Suite are excellent options. The eco-chic design throughout the camp blends sustainability with style — something I particularly appreciated.
What Made It Special:
- The Landscape: The stony terrain creates a dramatic backdrop, especially during sunrise and sunset when the Atlas Mountains are painted in golden light. At night, the stargazing here is truly remarkable — I've never seen stars so bright!
- The Infinity Pool: Floating in their dreamy pool while gazing across the canyon to the mountains was a highlight of my stay.
- The Food: The candlelit tented restaurant serves divine Moroccan cuisine alongside Western options. Everything I tasted was prepared with fresh ingredients and authentic spices.
- The Activities: From pottery classes to stargazing sessions with an expert, camel safaris, and desert picnics — there's no shortage of memorable experiences.
One thing to note: while the WiFi is available, it's quite weak, forcing you to disconnect and truly live in the moment — which, honestly, enhanced my experience.
Choosing the Right Time to Visit
The Agafay Desert camps operate year-round, but timing can significantly impact your experience:
- Spring (March-May) and Autumn (October-November): My personal favorite seasons with pleasant temperatures in the mid-20°C range, comfortable for both daytime activities and evening relaxation.
- Winter (December-February): Daytime temperatures hover around 20°C, but nights can get quite chilly. The in-tent wood burners at Inara Camp or heating systems at Caravan Agafay make evenings cozy, and the crisp winter air makes for exceptionally clear mountain views.
- Summer (June-September): For heat-lovers only! Temperatures can reach 40°C, though the dry desert heat feels different from Marrakech's intensity. The pools become essential during these months, and most activities shift to early morning or late afternoon.
Final Thoughts
What makes the Agafay Desert special isn't just the dramatic landscape or the luxury accommodations — it's the feeling of being simultaneously connected to Morocco's ancient desert traditions while enjoying thoughtful modern comforts.
Whether you choose the social atmosphere and extensive facilities of Caravan Agafay or the intimate seclusion of Inara Camp, these experiences offer a perfect complement to the sensory intensity of Marrakech. The contrast between city and desert creates a beautiful balance that I believe represents the true magic of Morocco.
Have you experienced the Agafay Desert? I'd love to hear about your adventures in the comments below!