When you visit Morocco, you'll quickly notice something extraordinary – there isn't a single Moroccan home without atay (tea). It's not just a drink; it's the heartbeat of our hospitality and daily life.
I remember the first time I learned to prepare atay properly from my grandfather. He was so patient, showing me exactly how high to pour it to create the perfect foam, how to arrange the mint just right, and most importantly, how to serve it with love. This simple act of preparing tea connects us to centuries of tradition.
But have you ever wondered how this Chinese drink became such an essential part of Moroccan identity? The story is as rich and sweet as the tea itself.
The Royal Origins of Moroccan Atay
Many Moroccans believe that atay first came to Morocco through a fascinating tale from the 18th century. As the story goes, around the 1700s, a young prince in Safi became curious about a strange red drink he saw Europeans enjoying in their establishments.
Drawn by curiosity, the prince secretly visited a French tavern at night and tried this beverage. Though the taste wasn't immediately pleasant, each sip made him crave another. The prince became so fascinated with this drink that he returned night after night until he developed a concerning habit.
When the Sultan (his father) discovered his son's addiction to this foreign alcoholic drink, he was furious! He tried everything – locking the prince up, seeking help from religious scholars and wise men – but nothing worked.
Eventually, news reached the palace of an English doctor in Tangier who might have a solution. The Sultan immediately summoned the doctor to Safi, along with a Moroccan physician.
The English doctor had a brilliant idea – replace the prince's forbidden drink with something permissible that was already popular in England: tea. He prepared a beautiful pot of tea, but when the Moroccan doctor tasted it, he suggested modifications to better suit Moroccan tastes. They added more sugar, mint, and allowed it to steep longer.
They presented this new beverage to the prince amidst an atmosphere of music and celebration to mimic his experiences with alcohol. The prince took one sip and was immediately enchanted! He gladly replaced his harmful habit with atay.
When the Sultan himself tried the tea, he too fell in love with it and decreed that it would become the official beverage of the Moroccan royal court.
While this delightful story explains how tea preparation evolved in Morocco, historians note that it's likely more legend than fact. The tale was probably created to help popularize tea among Moroccans and reduce the consumption of alcohol.
The True History of Tea in Morocco
The real story of atay in Morocco is just as interesting as the legend. Tea originated in China as early as the 1st century CE. By the 7th century, it had spread to Korea and Japan, and by the 9th century, it reached the eastern parts of the Islamic world.
Europeans discovered tea much later. In the 16th century, Portuguese traders began bringing small amounts to Europe after discovering sea routes to India. The Dutch followed in the 17th century, introducing tea to France and Holland between 1630 and 1640.
But tea didn't really take off in Europe until the English embraced it. In 1662, it became one of the primary commodities of the British East India Company, and the English developed a genuine passion for tea.
Despite Morocco being part of the Islamic world where tea had arrived in the 9th century, it took much longer to reach our shores. The earliest records suggest tea appeared in Morocco in the second half of the 17th century, around 1640, but only among limited groups like the pirates of Rabat and some foreign members of the royal court.
Historical sources indicate that both the Saadian sultans (before the Alaouite dynasty) and early Alaouite sultans used tea as medicine rather than a beverage.
Tea's Journey Through Moroccan Society
Tea's journey in Morocco can be divided into six major phases:
- 1640-1725: Used primarily as medicine by Saadian sultans and early Alaouite rulers.
- From 1727: European ambassadors began offering tea as gifts to Moroccan officials. It was still very expensive and rare.
- Mid-18th century: Under Sultan Mohammed III (who ruled from 1757 to 1790), tea became the official royal court beverage. This was partly to distinguish the Moroccan court from the Ottoman Empire, with whom Morocco was engaged in a cultural rivalry.
The royal court developed special rituals around tea preparation. A group of people called "hanata" were solely responsible for preparing tea in the palace. When the Sultan wanted tea, a servant would call out "Ma'an sidi" (Sir's water), and others would respond "Sahbatinu" and quickly prepare the tea in a special manner that remained in the royal palace until the 1950s.
- Early 19th century: As tea was embraced by the Sultan, it gradually spread to the upper classes who wished to emulate the royal court. The price began to decrease, though it remained expensive for common people.
- Mid-19th century expansion: In 1840, Morocco imported about 18,000 kilograms of tea. With a population of around 4.25 million, this meant only about 4.5 grams per Moroccan. Tea was still scarce and available only in major markets like Tangier, Rabat, Essaouira, and Larache.
After Morocco signed a trade agreement with Britain that opened the country to foreign influence, tea began entering Morocco in larger quantities. Prices fell and ordinary people started using it, especially in large cities and during celebrations and weddings.
- Geographic expansion:
- From 1860: Tea spread to smaller cities and rural areas near large cities.
- From 1880: It reached remote countryside areas and desert regions.
- Early 1900s: Tea finally reached mountainous regions of Morocco and spread to Algeria and Tunisia with the Moroccan preparation method.
The growth was remarkable – Morocco's tea imports grew from 31,000 kilograms in 1862 to three million kilograms by 1908. However, tea didn't reach the poorest classes in Moroccan society until the 1920s and 1930s, and poor rural areas until the 1940s.
How Atay Became Part of Moroccan Identity
In just about 80 years, tea became deeply rooted in Moroccan culture. It wasn't called "Chinese tea" but "atay" – a new entity. Today, even tea brands grown and produced in China market their product as "Moroccan tea."
The integration of tea into Moroccan culture wasn't without controversy. Some religious scholars viewed it as forbidden, while others defended it as permissible. Suleiman Al-Hawat wrote: "We drank from the aged tea a permissible drink, not wine nor alcohol, as it is sweeter and more pleasant than them, and it does not intoxicate the precious mind."
On the other hand, Ahmad Ibn Al-Mukhtar argued: "Among forbidden matters are those that lead to self-destruction, those that lead to loss of wealth, and being distracted from prayer by tea. Whatever leads to something forbidden is itself forbidden."
With support from the government and European exporters, this debate was settled in favor of tea. Moroccans accepted and embraced it so completely that today it's impossible to find a Moroccan home without tea.
Why Atay Conquered Morocco
Several factors contributed to tea's deep penetration into Moroccan culture:
- Royal court imitation: People naturally wanted to emulate their leaders.
- Affordability: The price dropped significantly over time.
- Social atmosphere: Tea created a special social atmosphere with its brewing sounds and preparation ritual.
- Nutritional value: The sugar in tea provides energy, and when paired with a piece of bread and olive oil, it becomes a satisfying meal, especially during times when food wasn't always abundant.
- Medicinal beliefs: During epidemics, people believed tea had magical healing properties.
- Alternative to harmful substances: Religious scholars recommended tea to people struggling with alcohol, hashish, or tobacco addictions.
Tea became so important that it earned nicknames like "al-dawaz" (the pass) in some regions. Popular sayings emerged:
- "Afternoon tea is better than a bite of grilled meat."
- "Tea with mint is better than a merchant's nest with four types of goods."
- "Midday tea is better than a hidden treasure."
How We Prepare Atay Today
The Moroccan method of preparing tea is distinctive and reflects our royal heritage:
- We use a special metal teapot, often silver or silver-plated for special occasions.
- The tea is served in small, decorative glasses placed on a beautiful tray.
- We add fresh mint leaves and plenty of sugar.
- The tea is poured from a height to create foam (the sign of a good tea).
- We always serve three glasses: the first mild like life, the second strong like love, and the third gentle like death.
I remember my grandmother telling me that you can judge a person's character by how they prepare tea. She'd say, "Watch how someone pours the atay – if they're patient and careful, they'll be the same in life."
When I prepare tea for guests today, I still hear her voice reminding me to pour it high enough to create the perfect froth but not so high that I spill a drop!
Atay: More Than Just a Drink
Today, atay has become a cultural language that enables Moroccans to identify with each other and distinguish themselves from their immediate surroundings. It's like a national symbol with the remarkable ability to blend elements from different origins into a unique product.
When I sit with friends for atay, it's never just about the drink. It's a space for conversation, for solving problems, for celebrating good news, or comforting each other through difficult times. The time it takes to prepare the tea – washing the pot, boiling the water, steeping the tea, adding mint and sugar – creates a natural pause in our busy lives.
I've noticed that tourists are often surprised by how frequently we offer tea and how we can drink it all day long, even in hot weather. But for us, refusing atay is like refusing friendship. It's our way of saying "welcome" and "you are important to me."
Experience Moroccan Atay for Yourself
If you visit Morocco, here are some tips to fully experience our tea culture:
- Accept when offered: When a Moroccan offers you tea, accept if you can. It's a gesture of friendship.
- Watch the preparation: The process is as important as the drink itself.
- Wait for the host to serve you: There's an order to who receives tea first (usually the eldest or most respected guest).
- Try it sweet: Traditional Moroccan tea is very sweet – try it the authentic way first before asking for less sugar.
- Have at least two glasses: The first glass is sometimes considered just to "wash the flavor of the dust away."
- Express appreciation: A simple "bsaha" (to your health) shows gratitude.
The Legacy of Atay in Modern Morocco
While our relationship with tea continues to evolve (with some younger Moroccans now choosing coffee or other beverages), atay remains an essential part of our cultural identity.
At weddings, business meetings, family gatherings, or just a quiet afternoon at home – the ritual of tea brings Moroccans together. It has become our symbol of hospitality, generosity, and taking time for human connection in a fast-paced world.
When I travel abroad, the thing I miss most is sitting with family around a pot of properly brewed atay. The familiar sound of tea being poured from height into small glasses, the fresh scent of mint, and the conversation that flows as naturally as the tea – there's simply nothing like it.
Have you experienced Moroccan tea culture? What was your impression? Did you learn to pour it from a height? Share your stories in the comments below!
Want to learn more about Moroccan culture? Check out my articles on Traditional Moroccan Weddings, or Moroccan Hospitality Customs.