Morocco's southern Atlantic coast holds some of the country's most captivating secrets. Away from the bustling souks of Marrakech and the well-trodden paths of Fez, you'll find the beautiful villages of southern Morocco and dream arch formations that seem to belong in a painter's imagination rather than reality. Join me as I take you through Sidi Ifni, the breathtaking Legzira Beach, and the charming Mirleft – three destinations that showcase Morocco's coastal magic.
Sidi Ifni: The Blue and White Coastal City
The City of Cacti and French Retirees
Our journey began with Sidi Ifni, a picturesque coastal town often called "the city of the cactus." What immediately struck us upon arrival was the significant number of French retirees who make this place their winter home. They come seeking sunshine, the sweet Moroccan way of life, and that special quality that makes this country so endearing.
The campsite was completely full when we arrived – the last spot miraculously available for our family. While the atmosphere among the long-term residents seemed a bit reserved (perhaps our energetic children disrupted the usual tranquility!), we were eager to discover why so many expatriates choose to spend months here.
Blue Streets and Vibrant Architecture
The following morning, we set out to explore Sidi Ifni properly. The architecture immediately captivated us – buildings painted in crisp white and various shades of blue, decorated with elegant arches and vibrant murals. There's an undeniable gentleness to Sidi Ifni, a peaceful atmosphere that envelops you as you wander its streets.
Place Hassan II (formerly Place d'Espagne) forms the heart of the town – a lively, colorful square adorned with magnificent frescoes. Here, you'll find artistic representations of the Alhambra and the Menara pavilion, as if the city has gathered fragments of everything that makes this region of the world so culturally rich.
Hassan II Garden and Instagram-Worthy Corners
Adjacent to the square lies the Hassan II Garden, a small green oasis where giant cacti and palm trees provide welcome shade. Small benches invite visitors to pause and savor the moment. It's easy to understand why Sidi Ifni earned its nickname as "the capital of cacti" – these resilient plants symbolize the raw beauty and endurance that characterizes this lovely coastal town.
For photography enthusiasts, Sidi Ifni is a dream. Picturesque streets, brightly colored walls, and ornate doors create perfect backdrops for memorable photos. Throughout the town, we noticed intriguing murals, possibly created by ultras from Moroccan football clubs (if anyone knows the story behind these artworks, we'd love to hear it!).
The Authentic Souk Experience
No visit to a Moroccan town would be complete without exploring its market, and Sidi Ifni's souk offers an authentic sensory journey. Be prepared for the reality of Moroccan daily life – open-air meat stalls and street cats searching for scraps. But the market also showcases Morocco's bounty – colorful vegetable displays, tempting dry biscuits, and flowers adorning walls and adding splashes of color throughout.
While Sidi Ifni's golden beach is undeniably beautiful with its expansive sand and infinite horizon, we weren't ready to settle in for months like many visitors do. After enjoying the ocean view, we continued our journey toward one of Morocco's most spectacular natural wonders – Legzira Beach.
Legzira Beach: Home to Morocco's Magnificent Arch
A Natural Wonder Sculpted by Time
The drive to Legzira builds anticipation, but nothing prepares you for the breathtaking spectacle that awaits. From our parking spot overlooking the ocean, we followed the path down to the famous arch, and the view literally stopped us in our tracks.
Legzira Beach is home to a magnificent natural arch (there were originally two, but one collapsed some years ago). This natural sculpture, carved by wind, water, and the patient hand of time, stands as a testament to nature's artistic abilities. The rich red rock creates a stunning contrast against the deep blue Atlantic Ocean – truly a magical place that feels like stepping into a dream.
Racing Against the Tide
As we approached the arch, we were struck by its immense scale. Standing beneath it, you feel wonderfully small against this masterpiece of natural architecture. The sand underfoot mixes with smooth pebbles polished by countless tides.
A word of caution for visitors: the tide rises remarkably quickly here. What began as a leisurely exploration suddenly turned into a brisk walk as we realized the water was rapidly approaching. It's easy to become so entranced by the beauty that you lose track of time and tides – so keep an eye on the water level during your visit!
Worth Every Kilometer
Despite our hasty retreat from the rising tide, we couldn't help but marvel at this extraordinary formation. The arch of Legzira is genuinely impressive and absolutely worth the journey to this part of Morocco. On the beach, camels await visitors for rides, and there are places to enjoy a traditional mint tea while children play in the sand.
The parking area near Legzira arch charges a fee comparable to a campsite, but it offers a valuable extra – access to a kasbah for showering. After a day of exploring sandy beaches and swimming in salt water, this amenity was most welcome.
Mirleft: An Unexpected Favorite
A Charming Town Full of Surprises
Mirleft
With the sunrise, we continued our coastal exploration to Mirleft. Initially, we had no particular expectations for this transit town, viewing it merely as a stopping point along our route. Yet from the very first streets, Mirleft captured our hearts.
The town greets visitors with elegant arches, lively small shops, and most impressively, passionate artisans practicing traditional crafts. In Mirleft, you can feel a palpable sweetness in the air, a tranquility, and the happiness that comes from living simply.
Artisans Preserving Precious Traditions
We had the privilege of meeting a local artisan, a master of basketry who graciously shared his craft with us. He explained how he transforms branches from local trees into beautifully woven creations – baskets, hats, rugs, animal figurines, lampshades, and parasols. It was touching to see how he keeps children close by as he works, passing down this precious tradition to the next generation.
In Mirleft, nothing goes to waste. Moroccan ingenuity shines through recycling practices – used tires, metal cans, and driftwood are transformed into beautiful and useful objects. Around almost every corner, you might discover another artist practicing their craft in plain view, offering a window into Morocco's rich artistic heritage.
Ocean, Food, and Joy
After these cultural discoveries, we headed to the beach. The salty air and rhythmic sound of waves created the perfect backdrop for a quintessential Moroccan experience – the delicious merguez sandwich! Simple, flavorful, and perfect for enjoying with friends while gazing at the Atlantic.
Mirleft's beaches are particularly family-friendly, with water that remains shallow for impressive distances from shore. This creates a natural playground where children can run, jump, and build sandcastles with relative safety (though we always maintained careful supervision).
Shopping and Culinary Delights
Returning to Mirleft's center, we wandered through more of its charming streets. The town offers wonderful shopping opportunities – from traditional Moroccan slippers that caught our daughter Ambre's eye to local honey that's both delicious and more affordable than in tourist centers like Marrakech.
For dinner, we treated ourselves to a meal at a restaurant with a warm, welcoming atmosphere. The menu featured Moroccan soups, grilled octopus, royal couscous, skewers, and fresh fish – something to please every palate in our group. We savored not just the food but also these precious final moments together in this unexpectedly enchanting town.
Mirleft truly surprised us with its serenity, discreet charm, and gentle atmosphere that invites visitors to linger. The encounters we had, the moments we shared, and the memories we created here added a special dimension to our Moroccan adventure.
Practical Information for Visitors
Getting There
These southern coastal towns are best reached by car, allowing you the freedom to explore at your own pace. From Agadir, head south along the coast for approximately 3 hours to reach Sidi Ifni. Mirleft is about 30 minutes north of Sidi Ifni, while Legzira Beach sits between the two.
Best Time to Visit
The southern coast enjoys mild temperatures year-round, which explains its popularity among European retirees during winter months. For fewer crowds, consider visiting in shoulder seasons (spring or fall) when the weather remains pleasant but tourist numbers are lower.
Accommodation
Campsites are popular in this region, especially among long-term visitors. However, all three locations offer various accommodation options from budget guesthouses to more comfortable hotels. In Sidi Ifni particularly, booking ahead is recommended as spaces fill quickly during peak season.
Legzira Arch Tips
- Check tide times before visiting to avoid being caught by rising water
- Wear comfortable shoes suitable for walking on sand and rocks
- Bring water and sun protection as the beach offers little shade
- Consider paying for the parking area that includes shower access – a welcome amenity after a beach day
Final Thoughts on Southern Morocco's Coastal Treasures
Our journey through these beautiful villages of southern Morocco and the dream arch of Legzira left us with memories that will last a lifetime. From the blue-and-white streets of Sidi Ifni to the magnificent red arch at Legzira and the unexpected charm of Mirleft, this stretch of coastline offers travelers authentic experiences away from Morocco's more touristy destinations.
What makes these places special isn't just their physical beauty but the moments of connection – watching artisans practice centuries-old crafts, sharing simple meals with ocean views, and experiencing the genuine warmth of Moroccan hospitality.
Have you visited Morocco's southern coast? Which of these three locations appeals to you most? We'd love to hear your thoughts in the comments below. And if you've enjoyed traveling with us through this post, please share it with fellow Morocco enthusiasts!
Stay tuned for more adventures as we continue our motorhome journey through magical Morocco.