When I first visited northern Morocco, I was faced with a beautiful dilemma - should I spend more time in authentic Tétouan or tourist-friendly Chefchaouen? Both cities have their own magic, but they offer completely different experiences. Let me take you through both so you can decide which one fits your travel style!
The Road to Northern Morocco's Hidden Gems
My journey began with a ferry from Algeciras, Spain to Tangier. The crossing takes about three hours when everything goes smoothly. If you're planning to bring your vehicle like I did, you can get open tickets at unbeatable prices from agencies like Gutieres in the Los Parios commercial zone in Algeciras. For my van and two people, I paid around €290.
After crossing into Morocco (which took just 30 minutes - the border officers were friendly despite the somewhat disorganized process), my first priority was getting a SIM card. This is something I recommend to all travelers - having data makes navigating Morocco so much easier!
For our first night, we stayed at Lake Asmir near a dam of the same name. It was perfect for swimming, sunbathing, and enjoying a beautiful sunset. Just be warned - once night falls, you might experience a swarm of tiny flies! Our Scandinavian thermacell helped keep them away.
Tétouan: The Authentic Moroccan Experience
The next day, we headed to Tétouan, our first major Moroccan city. As soon as I stepped into Tétouan's medina, I was thrown into a completely authentic Moroccan experience. Unlike more touristy cities, Tétouan doesn't cater specifically to visitors - you're seeing real Moroccan life unfold around you.
Getting Lost in Tétouan's Maze-Like Medina
The medina is a true labyrinth! I didn't have any specific plans - I just let myself get lost in the narrow streets and soak in the atmosphere. This is exactly what makes Tétouan special.
Walking through the market areas was an assault on the senses (in the best possible way!). Vendors called out their offerings, colorful spices were piled high, and the smell of fresh food filled the air.
"Bonjour la France!" one shopkeeper called to me, mistaking me for a French tourist. "Tu veux acheter?" (Do you want to buy?), asked another, showing me his wares with pride.
The Authentic Food Markets
What struck me most in Tétouan was the authentic food markets. Unlike the souvenir shops you'll find in more touristy areas, here I saw:
- Live chickens being sold
- Fresh fish on display
- Colorful vegetables and fruits piled high
- Pungent spices in every shade imaginable
This is where locals shop daily for their ingredients. The atmosphere was loud and bustling - completely different from shopping at home, but exciting and real.
Tétouan's Hidden Tannery
One of Tétouan's hidden treasures is its tannery. It's much less visited than the famous ones in Fez, giving you a more authentic experience as you walk among the tanning basins.
I should mention that tanneries have a distinctive smell - it's part of the experience! But the craftsmanship on display and seeing this ancient practice still alive makes it worth visiting.
The Royal Palace and El Mechouar Square
After leaving the old medina, we passed by the Royal Palace on the main square of El Mechouar. The palace is surrounded by administrative buildings and notable houses, reflecting the city's historical and political importance.
The area has a distinctly Spanish influence with its white buildings. This makes sense given Tétouan's rich Andalusian heritage, visible in its architecture, white alleys, and peaceful atmosphere.
The Muslim Cemetery
Our visit to Tétouan ended with a view of the Muslim cemetery. In keeping with Islamic traditions, the graves are modest with Arabic inscriptions showing the name of the deceased, Quranic verses, and the date of death.
The Road to Chefchaouen
After Tétouan, we traveled northwest along the coast, which offered magnificent views of the Mediterranean. Then we turned inland toward Chefchaouen, passing through the Rif mountains.
This area is known locally as the "valley of kif" (cannabis). During our stay near a river, I went looking for firewood and stumbled upon a field of cannabis plants - something that's relatively common and tolerated in this region of Morocco.
The mountain landscapes on the way to Chefchaouen were stunning - steep mountains and lush green valleys that sometimes made me feel like I was in a completely different country.
Chefchaouen: The Picture-Perfect Blue City
As soon as we arrived in Chefchaouen, the difference from Tétouan was immediately clear. While Tétouan offers an authentic slice of Moroccan life, Chefchaouen is designed for tourists.
"Chef Chawen, la ville bleue" (Chefchaouen, the blue city) as locals call it, is one of the most visited places in Morocco. And for good reason - it's absolutely beautiful!
Those Famous Blue Streets
Chefchaouen, nicknamed the "blue city," is famous for its narrow streets with facades painted in different shades of blue. This Andalusian and Berber heritage creates a magical and peaceful atmosphere that photographers and Instagram lovers can't get enough of.
But why blue? There are several theories about this tradition:
- Some say the blue color repels mosquitoes
- Others believe it symbolizes the sky and spirituality
- Another theory is that it comes from Sephardic Jews who settled here in the 15th century
Whatever the reason, the result is stunning and creates a dreamlike quality throughout the city.
Shopping in Chefchaouen
While Tétouan had markets selling everyday necessities, Chefchaouen is all about souvenirs, paintings, and carpets. Shop owners here are used to tourists and have perfected their sales techniques.
We experienced a typical sales approach from a carpet seller named Brahim. He invited us in for mint tea (a Moroccan tradition of hospitality), unfolded carpets at our feet, and asked us to sort the ones we liked. Even though we told him we weren't interested in buying, it was an interesting cultural experience.
Instead of carpets, some of my friends ended up buying traditional Moroccan clothing - perfect for the heat we'd face later in our journey!
Food and Exploration
After enjoying delicious tajines and couscous for lunch, we continued exploring Chefchaouen. The advantage of this extremely touristy city is that if you get a little lost, you can find small alleys with no people that are just as beautiful as the main streets.
Two quirky things you'll notice throughout Morocco, but especially in Chefchaouen:
- Various vehicles somehow managing to navigate through incredibly narrow alleys without running anyone over
- Cats being the true masters of the medinas - you'll see them everywhere, and they're much more appreciated than dogs in Moroccan culture
So Which City Should You Visit?
Tétouan offers:
- A truly authentic Moroccan experience
- Real local markets with everyday goods
- Fewer tourists and more genuine interactions
- A hidden tannery that few travelers visit
- Rich Andalusian heritage and architecture
Chefchaouen offers:
- Stunning blue streets perfect for photography
- A more tourist-friendly experience
- Beautiful souvenir shopping
- A relaxed, magical atmosphere
- Easier navigation for first-time Morocco visitors
My advice? If possible, visit both! They complement each other perfectly. Start with touristy Chefchaouen to ease into Moroccan culture, then challenge yourself with authentic Tétouan. Or do what I did - experience Tétouan first for the cultural shock, then relax in beautiful Chefchaouen.
Practical Tips for Visiting Tétouan and Chefchaouen
Getting There
- From Tangier, you can easily reach Tétouan by grand taxi or bus
- From Tétouan to Chefchaouen, shared taxis are available, or rent a car to enjoy the mountain scenery
Best Time to Visit
- Spring (March-May) and fall (September-October) offer pleasant temperatures
- Summer can be very hot, especially in Tétouan which is closer to the coast
- Winter in Chefchaouen can be chilly due to its mountain location
Photography
- Early morning in Chefchaouen provides the best light for those famous blue streets
- In Tétouan, always ask before photographing people in the markets
- Both cities offer incredible rooftop views - ask at your riad for access
Accommodation
- Both cities have plenty of riads (traditional Moroccan houses) at various price points
- In Chefchaouen, book ahead during high season as it's very popular
- In Tétouan, you'll find more authentic and often cheaper options
My Personal Reflection
I left both cities tired but delighted with these first Moroccan experiences. Despite its popularity, Chefchaouen with its enchanting charm is an essential destination in northern Morocco. And Tétouan, with its raw authenticity, gave me a genuine glimpse into Moroccan daily life that I'll never forget.
The contrast between these two cities perfectly represents what I love about Morocco - it can offer both Instagram-perfect beauty and genuine cultural immersion, often just a short drive apart.
Have you visited either of these cities? Which would you prefer to explore first? Let me know in the comments below!
As they say here in Morocco, salamat!